Dog Grooming Kit: The 2026 US Buyer's Guide (and What to Skip)

What a dog grooming kit actually needs — and what is packaging filler

Most “dog grooming kits” sold in the US are a motor, four pieces of plastic, and a bag. The bag is the giveaway. A kit that ships with its own drawstring pouch is usually telling you something about the tools inside: they are small, they are light, and they were chosen by a purchasing department in Shenzhen, not by anyone who has ever held a squirming Shih Tzu.

That is not a knock on cheap kits. It is a warning about what “kit” means in e-commerce. The word has no standard. A $29 Amazon set and a $210 Wahl box both say “dog grooming kit” on the front, and they are not the same product category any more than a lawnmower and a helicopter are both “things with blades.”

Strip it back and a home grooming kit has one job: keep the dog healthy and presentable between professional visits, without injuring the animal or the owner's patience. Everything else is a sales accessory.

The four tools that do 90% of the work

A working kit is a clipper with a blade you can replace, a slicker brush matched to coat length, a metal comb, and a nail tool. That is the core. If the kit you are looking at does not include a replaceable blade system, you are buying a disposable appliance with a grooming-shaped shell.

The clipper matters most, and not because of wattage. It matters because of the blade ecosystem. Wahl, Andis and Oster all use detachable blade systems with aftermarket support that will still exist in 2031. A no-name clipper with a proprietary snap-on head is a paperweight the moment the blade dulls, and it will dull faster than you expect on a doodle.

The brush is the second decision, and it is coat-specific. A slicker brush is not universal. On a short Lab coat it is fine. On a Maltese it is the difference between a dog that tolerates grooming and a dog that hides under the bed when the drawer opens. On a double coat, a slicker alone will not reach the undercoat, and you will spend 45 minutes moving surface hair around while the shed layer stays put.

The stuff that ends up in a drawer

Every kit has them. Tiny scissors that are too small for a real trim. A “cleaning brush” that is a toothbrush with a markup. A plastic comb that snaps at the tines within a month. A nail file that is functionally a nail file, which is to say useless on a 60-pound dog's dewclaw.

None of that makes the kit bad. It makes the kit average. Judge the purchase by the three tools you will actually use weekly — clipper, brush, nail grinder — and treat everything else as a freebie. That framing also kills the “value” argument on 12-piece kits: 12 pieces at $39 means each piece cost about three dollars to make, and the clipper got the same budget as the comb.

Best dog grooming kits in the US for 2026

Quick verdict before the long version

If you want the shortest possible answer: buy a Wahl or Andis clipper kit if you plan to cut hair, buy a Neakasa or oneisall vacuum kit if you mainly fight shedding, and buy a Furminator plus a decent slicker if your dog is double-coated and you have no intention of clipping. Those three paths cover most US households. The rest of this section explains which specific box to pick and where each one falls apart.

Prices below are public US listings checked in late 2026. They move. Chewy runs clipper deals that undercut Amazon by 15–35% for a week at a time, and Amazon's third-party sellers change price more often than most people change furnace filters.

1. Neakasa P1 Pro — best overall vacuum kit for most owners

The P1 Pro is a 6-in-1 vacuum-assisted kit: grooming brush, detangling tool, electric clipper, five guide combs (3, 6, 12, 18 and 24 mm), and cleaning tools, built around a 1L washable dust cup with up to 9000Pa of suction across three levels. Street price sits around $83–$95 depending on the week and the seller. Dogster's hands-on review rated it 4.9/5 and flagged the one genuine limitation: the 1L cup fills fast on a large dog.

That limitation is real but narrower than it sounds. For a 20-pound dog, 1L is a full session. For a 70-pound German Shepherd in blowout season, you will empty it twice. The trade-off is deliberate — a bigger cup means a heavier unit, and the P1 Pro is designed to sit on the floor while you move the hose, not to be carried around your waist.

What it does well is the thing most owners actually need: it catches the hair at the source instead of redistributing it across the living room. The suction also lifts loose undercoat as you brush, which cuts a heavy deshed from a 45-minute freehand job to roughly 15–20 minutes. Noise is the compromise. It is quiet for a vacuum, not quiet for a dog with sound anxiety, and the desensitization period is measured in days, not minutes.

2. oneisall 7-in-1 — the most complete vacuum kit

Oneisall's 7-in-1 adds a paw trimmer and a nail grinder to the brush, deshedder, clipper and nozzle, and the clipper, paw trimmer and grinder all detach to run cordless on their own. That detachability is the feature worth paying for. You can grind nails in the living room without dragging a hose, then clip back into the vacuum for the body work.

Listed noise is 59 dB, and the dust box is 1.5L — half again the Neakasa's capacity, which matters if you have a large shedder. US pricing is aggressive: the LM2 7-in-1 is regularly $99.99 with coupon against a $129.99 regular price, and the bigger BM3 with 13,000Pa has been listed around $104.50 from a $177.99 original. That is a lot of tool for the money, and the usual caveat applies: at this price the plastics feel like this price, and the blade quality is a step below a Wahl or Andis detachable system.

Buy it if shedding is your main problem and clipping is secondary. Skip it if you intend to do full body clips on a matted doodle every eight weeks. The motor will do it for a while. It is not the motor that will still be doing it in 2031.

3. Wahl Bravura — best clipper for small, anxious dogs

The Bravura is cordless, lithium-powered, noticeably quieter than the professional corded units, and runs an adjustable 5-in-1 blade, which means you change cut length with a lever instead of buying a drawer full of separate blades. Chewy lists it at $210.99 against a $241.95 list, and other US retailers sit in the $211–$258 range depending on color and bundle.

For a Shih Tzu, Cavalier, terrier, Maltese or small poodle mix, this is usually the entire clipper conversation. It is light, it does not get hot the way a corded detachable blade does, and the constant-speed control keeps torque up when the coat thickens. The limit is stamina. On a large matted coat the Bravura slows down and the battery drains, which is Wahl's polite way of telling you this is a maintenance clipper, not a demolition tool.

One more thing: the 5-in-1 blade is convenient and proprietary-adjacent. Replacement heads exist and are widely stocked, but you are buying into Wahl's accessory line, not the universal A5 ecosystem. For a single small dog, that is a fine trade. For three shaggy dogs, it is not.

4. Andis ProClip AGC — best for doodles and thick coats

Andis is what a large share of working groomers already own, and the AGC is the reason. It has the torque to push through dense, curly doodle coat without bogging, and it takes standard detachable A5 blades, so you can run a #10 for sanitary areas and pads, then switch to a #4F or a guard comb for the body. US pricing on the AGC Super 2-Speed runs roughly $107–$123 new, with the 1-speed kit often around $100–$120 depending on the seller.

It is corded. That is not a flaw; it is the design. Corded means constant torque and no battery anxiety mid-doodle, and some dogs genuinely do not care about the cord. Some do, and for those dogs the Bravura is the better call. Detachable blades also get genuinely hot — touch the blade against your own wrist every couple of minutes and keep coolant nearby. That is not optional advice. It is the difference between a groom and a burn.

Andis's real advantage is the boring one: parts and repair. You can buy a blade, a drive lever, or a cord in 2029. That is worth more than any spec sheet.

5. Oster A5 Turbo 2-Speed — the workhorse

The Oster A5 Turbo is heavy, loud, and will outlive most of the people reading this. Chewy has listed it at $176.15 against a $269.99 list, which is a genuine deal when it is live, and it is the clipper professionals reach for in multi-dog homes. For one dog every six weeks, it is overkill. For a household with three shaggy dogs, it pays for itself in avoided replacement clippers alone.

The A5 blade system is the other half of the argument. It is the closest thing the industry has to a universal standard, which means blades, combs, and coolants are available everywhere and cheaply. If you are the person who ends up grooming the neighbor's Goldendoodle because word got out, buy this and stop pretending the $79 kit is enough.

6. Wahl Lithium Ion Pro Series — the sensible $65 kit

At around $64.99, the Wahl Lithium Ion Pro Series is the kit most first-time home groomers should actually start with. Cord/cordless, a usable blade set, and a brand that will still sell you a replacement part in three years. It is not a professional motor. It does not need to be. For paw pads, sanitary trims, face tidying and a simple body clip on a short-to-medium coat, it is enough.

The honest limit: it is a maintenance and touch-up tool that can do a full clip on an easy coat, not a full-clip tool that happens to be cheap. Put it against a matted doodle and it will stall, pull, and teach your dog that grooming hurts. That lesson is expensive to unlearn.

7. Afloia 6-in-1 vacuum kit — the cordless-clipper runner-up

Afloia's 6-in-1 is a close cousin of the oneisall at a slightly lower list price: grooming and deshedding tools, clippers, paw trimmer, nail grinder, cleaning brush and nozzle, listed below 60 dB with three suction levels, a detachable rechargeable clipper, and a 1.5L dust cup. If the oneisall is out of stock or the price jumps, this is the substitution that does not require a rethink.

It is not a better product. It is a similar product with slightly softer plastics and a less established support network. For a first vacuum kit on a small-to-medium shedder, that trade is acceptable. For a heavy double coat and daily use, pay the extra for the oneisall or step up to a brand with a parts channel.

8. Furminator deShedding tool — the brush that belongs in every kit

Furminator is not a grooming kit in the “clippers in a box” sense, but it is the tool that most often gets left out and most often should not be. The deShedding tool reaches undercoat that a slicker skims over, and Chewy prices the short-hair and long-hair large sizes around $35.27 against a $41.49 list. For a Lab, Shepherd, Husky or Golden, this single tool will remove more hair in ten minutes than a $99 kit's brush will remove in a month.

The caveat is technique. Furminator is not a daily brush for every coat. Overuse on sensitive skin causes irritation, and on a coat that is already thin it removes more than you want. Use it in shed season, twice a week, with light pressure, and stop when the hair stops coming.

Comparison table: price, noise, blades, warranty, and what you give up

Read the “what you give up” column before the price column. The $65 Wahl and the $211 Bravura are both good purchases; they are good for different dogs and different owners. The expensive mistake is buying the $65 kit for a matted doodle and concluding that home grooming does not work.

How to choose a dog grooming kit without guessing

Coat type beats brand loyalty

Short, smooth coats — Beagle, Boxer, Lab — forgive almost anything. A $65 clipper, a rubber curry, and a Furminator in shed season will do the job. You do not need a detachable-blade system, and buying one is a hobby, not a necessity.

Curly and wool coats — Poodle, Bichon, Doodle, Lagotto — are the opposite. They mat at the skin, not at the surface, and a clipper that stalls will pull the mat instead of cutting it. This is the coat type that justifies an Andis AGC or an Oster A5. It is also the coat type where a #10 blade does the most work: sanitary trim, paw pads, face, and the base under guard combs. If you own a doodle and one clipper, buy the one with torque.

Double coats — Husky, Golden, Shepherd, Corgi — are a trap for clipper buyers. The right tool is a rake and a deshedder, not a blade. Clipping a double coat down to the skin is not a haircut; it is a way to mess up the coat's temperature regulation and get a patchy regrowth. The kit you want here is a brush kit plus a cheap clipper for paw pads and hygiene, not a $200 body-clipping setup.

Size of the dog changes the tool, not the technique

Small dogs do not need a weaker clipper. They need a lighter one with a narrower blade, because the geometry of a Yorkie's paw pad does not accommodate a full-width A5 head. This is where the “small dog kit” category is mostly marketing — the tools are the same tools in a smaller bag — but there is a real argument for a lighter cordless unit on a dog you have to hold.

Large dogs need the opposite: torque, a bigger dust cup if you go vacuum, and blades that stay cool through a long session. A 1L cup on a 70-pound shedder is a mid-session interruption. A 59 dB vacuum on a noise-sensitive Great Pyrenees is a non-starter. Size changes the spec sheet more than it changes the method.

Noise and cordless: the two specs owners underestimate

Noise is the spec that decides whether grooming happens at all. A dog that panics at 72 dB will not be groomed by a quiet technique — it will be groomed by a groomer, at $85 a visit, forever. Under 65 dB is the realistic target for a vacuum kit; under 60 dB listed is better, with the caveat that manufacturer dB figures are measured at a distance that flatters them. For clippers, the Bravura is the reference point for quiet, and the difference between it and a corded A5 is obvious within five seconds of switching them on.

Cordless matters more than people admit. A cord limits you to one room and one outlet, which means the dog learns that the kitchen is the place where scary things happen. Cordless lets you do a five-minute session on the porch, stop, and come back later. Short sessions beat long ones for anxious dogs by a wide margin. If you have a nervous dog, cordless is not a luxury; it is the whole strategy.

Clipper blades: the numbers that actually mean something

Blade numbers run backwards: a #10 cuts closer than a #4F. A #10 leaves about 1.5 mm of coat and is the workhorse for sanitary areas, paw pads, and poodle faces. A #4F leaves roughly 9.5 mm and is a common body length for pet poodle clips. A #7F sits between them and is the usual choice for a slightly longer body finish. Guard combs snap over a #10 or #30 base and give you 3, 6, 12, 18 and 24 mm steps without changing blades.

If the kit you are considering does not include a #10, it is not a serious grooming kit. That single blade does more essential work than every guard comb in the box combined, and it is the blade you will replace first.

Dog grooming kits for small dogs, and the three breeds that get asked about most

Small dogs: why “mini” kits are mostly marketing

A “small dog grooming kit” is usually a standard kit with a smaller clipper body and a narrower blade. Sometimes that is genuinely useful — a full-width A5 head is clumsy on a 6-pound dog's paw — and sometimes it is a $12 plastic reduction with a $20 price increase.

The test is simple. Does the kit take a standard blade or a proprietary one? If proprietary, you are buying a disposable. If standard, the “small dog” label is just a packaging choice and you can judge the tool on its own merits. The other test: does it include a slicker small enough for a leg and a comb fine enough for a face? Those two tools matter more on a Maltese than the clipper does.

Poodle kits: curl, clip, and the #10 blade

Poodle coat is dense, curly, and grows continuously, which means it matts at the skin if it is not combed to the skin. The clipper conversation for a poodle is really a blade conversation: #10 or #15 for face, feet and tail base; #4F or #5F for a pet body clip; #7F for a sporting clip. A kit that includes a #10 and a set of guard combs covers the pet groom. A kit that includes only guard combs covers nothing, because there is no base blade to snap them onto.

Poodle owners also need to hear the unpopular part: a good clipper does not detangle. If the coat is matted, the clipper will chew it, pull it, and hurt. Brush first, or shave the mat out with a #10 and accept the shorter result. Buying a $200 clipper to solve a matting problem is buying a hammer to fix a leak.

Shih Tzu kits: long coat, flat face, zero tolerance for tugging

The Shih Tzu is a long-coated, flat-faced breed with a coat that tangles at the slightest friction — collars, harnesses, and the dog's own movement are enough. The kit priorities are a pin brush and a metal comb for line brushing, a slicker for the legs, and a quiet clipper for the sanitary trim and paw pads. The clipper is the least important tool in the box for this breed until it becomes the most important one, which happens the day the coat wins.

Face handling matters. A flat-faced dog has less margin around the eyes and nose, and a full-size clipper head is the wrong shape for that geography. A narrower blade or a detail trimmer is the honest tool. If a kit's smallest clipper is a full A5 head, budget for a separate face trimmer.

Maltese kits: fine hair, tear stains, and a light hand

Maltese coat is fine, silky, and single-layered, which means it tangles easily and shows every bit of handling. The tools are a pin brush, a fine-toothed comb, a slicker for the legs, and a small, quiet clipper for feet and hygiene. The most common mistake is a coarse brush used too hard, which breaks the hair and creates frizz that looks like damage and is damage.

Tear staining is a management issue, not a grooming-kit issue. No clipper fixes it. Daily face wiping and a dry muzzle do more than any tool in the box, and a kit marketed on “tear stain removal” is selling a hope, not a blade.

Long hair, double coats, and the mat trap

Long hair is not a length problem. It is a line-brushing problem. The coat has to be parted and brushed from the skin outward, in sections, or the surface looks fine while the underlayer is a solid felt mat. A slicker alone will not do this. You need a metal comb that reaches the skin, and you need to use it after the slicker to prove the job is done.

The mat trap is where most home grooming goes wrong. A matted coat cannot be clipped with a standard guard comb — the comb rides on top of the mat and the blade digs in underneath, which is how dogs get clipper burn and how owners get bitten. The correct move is a #10 blade straight under the mat, or a trip to a groomer. Scissors are the wrong tool: a moving dog and a scissor point near skin is a veterinary visit waiting to happen.

Double coats are the other trap, and it is a conceptual one. The undercoat is supposed to shed. Clipping it off does not stop the shedding; it removes the insulation that keeps the dog cool in summer and warm in winter, and it often grows back patchy. The right tools are a rake, a deshedding tool like the Furminator, and a high-velocity dryer if you are serious. A clipper is for the paw pads and the sanitary trim, not the back.

Vacuum grooming kits: worth the noise?

Yes, for a specific owner: someone with a shedding dog, an indoor living space, and a low tolerance for hair on the sofa. The vacuum catches the hair at the source, and the suction lifts loose undercoat as you work, which genuinely shortens a deshed session. The 45-minutes-to-15–20-minutes claim that manufacturers make is roughly right for a double coat in season.

No, for a different owner: someone with a noise-anxious dog who will not tolerate a vacuum near their face, or someone who mainly needs to clip rather than deshed. A vacuum kit is a shedding tool with a clipper attached, not a clipper kit with a vacuum attached. If your problem is coat length rather than coat volume, spend the money on the clipper and skip the hose.

The specs that matter: suction (10–13 kPa for medium coats, 15 kPa+ for heavy doubles), canister size (1L minimum, 1.5–2L for large dogs), noise (under 65 dB, under 60 dB listed is better), and whether the clipper detaches for cordless use. That last one is the difference between a tool you use weekly and a unit you resent setting up.

Nails: the part almost everyone botches

Nail trimming is the most feared part of home grooming and the one with the smallest margin for error. The quick — the blood supply inside the nail — grows further down the nail when the nails are not trimmed regularly, which means the dog that gets trimmed twice a year has the longest quicks and the highest risk of bleeding. Frequent small trims are easier than rare big ones.

Two tools work: clippers and a grinder. Clippers are faster and quieter; grinders are more forgiving and leave a rounded edge. A grinder is the better choice for an anxious owner because it removes material slowly, which means a mistake is a small mistake. Whichever you use, styptic powder belongs in the kit. Not because you plan to cut the quick, but because the one time you do, you will not want to be looking for it.

The kit reality: most “nail grooming kit” bundles include a clipper that is too large for a small dog and a file that does nothing. Buy the nail tool separately if the kit's version is an afterthought. A $30 grinder from a known brand is a better purchase than a $45 kit whose nail attachment is a plastic guard and a prayer.

Beginner at-home grooming: the first 30 days

Week one is not about cutting. It is about the dog learning that the tools are boring. Turn the clipper on across the room, feed a treat, turn it off. Do that for three days. Then touch the clipper body to the dog's shoulder without cutting, treat, stop. By the time you actually clip, the sound is old news and the handling is familiar.

Week two is brush and comb only. Line-brush the coat, comb through to the skin, and stop while the dog is still relaxed. Five minutes is a success. Ten minutes is a bonus. A 30-minute session on day one is how you create a dog that hates grooming for the next decade.

Week three is a sanitary trim and paw pads with a #10 blade. Short sessions, breaks, treats. Week four is the first real body clip, and it should be longer than you think — a #4F or a 12 mm comb, not a #10 all over. You can always take more off next month. You cannot put it back.

The first haircut will look like a first haircut. That is fine. A slightly uneven dog that stands still is a better outcome than a perfect clip on a dog that now fears the table.

What a kit really costs versus a groomer

Run the arithmetic instead of the marketing. A full groom for a medium doodle in a mid-cost US metro runs roughly $75–$95, and most coats need it every six to eight weeks. Call it seven visits a year at $85, which is $595, plus a tip and the driving. A $211 Bravura or a $150 Andis AGC, plus $30 of blades and coolant, breaks even somewhere in the third or fourth visit — before you count the gas and the two hours of your Saturday.

But the break-even number is the least interesting part of the calculation, because it hides the failure mode. The kit only pays for itself if you actually use it. A $211 clipper that lives in a closet is a $211 loss, and a home clip that goes wrong — clipper burn, a nicked quick, a mat that has to be shaved out — can cost more than the groomer you were trying to avoid. The realistic comparison is not “$211 versus $595.” It is “$211 plus your time plus a learning curve” versus “$595 plus someone else's time and skill.”

The honest middle path for most owners is a hybrid: a $65–$100 clipper kit for paw pads, sanitary trims and face tidying, plus a professional groom every eight to twelve weeks for the parts you cannot reach or the coat you cannot manage. That is not a compromise. It is what most groomers do with their own dogs.

Buyer protection in the US: returns, warranties, and recalls

Return policy is the most underrated spec on the box, and it varies wildly by retailer. Chewy's standard policy allows returns within 365 days of purchase with free return shipping on eligible items, and it is routinely described as one of the most generous windows in pet retail — it even covers some opened products. Amazon's pet-supply return window is narrower and has been changing: the standard 30-day window has been reduced to 14 days for a long list of categories, pet supplies included, with transitional timing through October 2026. Check the specific listing before you buy, because the policy is attached to the seller and the category, not to the product.

Warranty is a separate thing from returns, and it is governed by federal law. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a written warranty on a product costing more than $15 has to be available for you to read before you buy, and it has to disclose what the warrantor will do if the product is defective, how long the coverage lasts, and what it excludes. “Lifetime warranty” on a clipper usually means the motor, not the blade, and blades are the part that fails. Read the exclusions before the headline.

Recalls are the third leg. Pet grooming products sit under the Consumer Product Safety Commission alongside pet toys and gates, and the CPSC publishes recall notices with the product, the seller, the hazard and the remedy. A 2026 roundup of pet-product recalls counted seven CPSC actions covering pet toys, gates and grooming products, including a FURminator deShedding conditioner recall sold in gallon size. The practical habit: check the CPSC recall feed for the brand name before you buy a used or clearance unit, and register the product if the manufacturer offers it. A recall you never hear about is a recall that does not help you.

Where to buy, and what “on sale” really means

Chewy, Amazon, Walmart, Petco, PetSmart and the manufacturer's own site are the main US channels, and the price differences between them are larger than the brands would like you to know. Chewy runs clipper deals that knock 15–35% off list for a week at a time; the Oster A5 Turbo has been listed at $176.15 against $269.99, and the Bravura at $210.99 against $241.95. Amazon third-party pricing swings more often and less predictably, and “list price” there is frequently a number that was never actually charged.

Here is the part the deal pages leave out. A “sale” on a clipper is usually a sale on the box, not the blades. The blades, combs and coolants are the recurring cost, and they are rarely discounted. A 35% discount on the clipper that locks you into a proprietary blade line at full price is not a 35% saving; it is a customer-acquisition offer dressed as a bargain. The store is not a charity, and the “free” guide comb in the bundle is priced into the kit.

Buy from a retailer with a real return window and a real warranty channel. For a first kit, that matters more than saving $12. For a second kit, you already know what you want and the cheapest reputable seller is fine.

The questions that come up after the first haircut

Do I really need a grooming table, or can I use the floor?

For a small dog, a non-slip mat on a sturdy table at waist height is enough. For a large dog, the floor is safer than a table you cannot stabilize, but your back will hate you. A proper grooming arm and loop is worth it only if you groom regularly; for twice a year, a helper and a mat are cheaper and just as safe.

How often should I replace clipper blades?

Home users typically get 6–12 months out of a blade used every few weeks, less on thick or dirty coats. The signal is not a calendar date but performance: the blade pulls, heats faster, or leaves a ragged cut. Sharpen or replace at that point. A dull blade is the most common cause of clipper burn.

Can I use human clippers or scissors on my dog?

Human clippers are designed for hair density and skin geometry that a dog does not have, and they stall on dog coat. Human scissors are worse: curved, sharp, and pointed at exactly the wrong angle for a moving animal. Dog-specific clippers and blunt-tipped grooming scissors are not a markup; they are a different tool.

Is a vacuum grooming kit safe for a puppy?

Yes, with a slow introduction and the lowest suction setting. Puppies acclimatize faster than adult dogs if the first sessions are short and paired with treats. Keep the hose away from the face and ears, never use it on wet coat, and stop before the puppy gets restless rather than after.

What is the minimum kit for a short-haired dog?

A rubber curry or slicker brush, a metal comb, a nail clipper or grinder, and a cheap clipper for paw pads and hygiene. That is genuinely enough. A short coat does not need a detachable-blade system, a vacuum, or a $200 motor, and buying one is a hobby rather than a requirement.

Why does my clipper keep pulling instead of cutting?

Three causes, in order of likelihood: the blade is dull, the coat is matted or dirty, or the clipper is underpowered for the coat density. Clean and oil the blade, brush the coat out completely, and try a fresh blade before you blame the motor. If it still pulls on clean coat with a new blade, the clipper is the problem.