Best Dog Toothbrush in 2026: 9 Picks That Actually Get Used

Most dog toothbrushes are sold on a fantasy: that a $7 piece of plastic will undo a year of skipped brushing. It won’t. The brush is the cheapest part of the habit, and the habit is the only part that matters.

Veterinary dentists have been saying this for years. Periodontal disease shows up in more than half of dogs, and by age three the numbers get ugly. A 2023 Banfield review found dental issues in 73% of the dogs it saw. The brush you buy is not a treatment. It is a delivery mechanism for friction, and friction is what removes plaque before it mineralizes into tartar.

That framing kills most of the marketing. A “360-degree” head, a “sonic” motor, a “professional” handle — none of it matters if the brush is the wrong size, the bristles are too stiff, or the dog won’t let you near the molars. What follows is a buying guide built around those three constraints, not around the label on the package.

The dog toothbrush market is selling you three different problems

Walk down the dental aisle at Petco or scroll the Chewy category page and you’ll see dozens of SKUs that look interchangeable. They are not. The category is really three separate products wearing the same word.

The first is a training tool. Finger brushes, silicone sleeves, and tiny micro-head brushes exist to get a dog comfortable with something in its mouth. They are not great at cleaning, and they are not supposed to be.

The second is a maintenance tool. A soft-bristled handled brush with a head sized to the dog’s mouth is what you use once the dog tolerates the routine. This is where most owners should end up.

The third is a convenience product. Electric, sonic, and ultrasonic brushes promise to do the work for you. Some of them help. Most of them are sold with more confidence than evidence.

Mixing those three jobs is how people end up with a drawer full of unused brushes and a dog that still has tartar. Pick the job first. The product follows.

The quick verdict: best dog toothbrushes in 2026

If you want the short version, the table below is the short version. The rest of the article explains why each pick exists, where it fails, and what it costs to keep the habit running for a year.

The overall pick is still the Virbac C.E.T. dual-ended brush. It costs about as much as a coffee, has a small head for the front teeth and a larger head for the back, and the soft bristles are the right texture for a dog’s gum line. It is not exciting. It is the brush most veterinarians reach for because it solves the two problems that actually matter: size and reach.

The value pick depends on the dog. For a large breed, TropiClean’s TripleFlex does more per stroke because the bristles wrap three sides of the tooth. For a small breed or a puppy, Vetoquinol’s Enzadent dual-ended brush has the softer touch and the smaller head. For a nervous dog that will not accept a handle, Jasper’s 360 finger brush is the least bad compromise.

The 9 dog toothbrushes worth considering

Ranking toothbrushes is a strange exercise because the best brush for a 6-pound Yorkie is a terrible brush for a 90-pound Labrador. The list below is ordered by how broadly useful each brush is, not by a lab score. Where a brush is size-specific, I say so.

1. Virbac C.E.T. Dual-Ended Toothbrush — best overall

Virbac’s brush is the default recommendation in vet clinics for a reason that has nothing to do with branding. The dual-head design gives you a small head for the incisors and a large head for the molars, and the reverse angle lets you reach the outside of the upper teeth without opening the dog’s mouth like a hinge.

The bristles are soft, which matters more than most owners realize. Stiff bristles irritate the gums, and irritated gums bleed, and bleeding convinces owners to stop brushing. A soft brush used daily beats a stiff brush used twice.

Price is around $7 at Chewy. There is no meaningful “premium” version of this brush that cleans better. Buy two and keep one in the car if your dog travels.

2. Vetoquinol Enzadent Dual-Ended — best for small mouths and puppies

The Enzadent brush is built on the same dual-ended logic as the Virbac, but the small end is genuinely small. That makes it the better choice for puppies, toy breeds, and any dog under roughly 15 pounds whose back teeth are packed into a narrow jaw.

The handle is long enough to keep your fingers out of the bite zone, and the soft bristles are forgiving on puppy gums. Veterinarians quoted by PetMD single this brush out for small breeds and puppies for exactly those reasons.

Street price is around $9 at Chewy, though first-time Autoship pricing can knock it down to the $5–6 range. The discount is real, but see the shipping section before you subscribe to a recurring order just to save three dollars.

3. TropiClean TripleFlex — best value for large dogs

Large mouths are a coverage problem. A standard flat brush cleans one surface at a time, which means a 90-pound dog needs a longer session than a 9-pound dog. The TripleFlex puts bristles on three sides, so each stroke covers the front, the back, and the chewing surface at once.

That design is not a gimmick, but it is not a substitute for technique either. The head is bulky, which is fine in a Labrador’s mouth and hopeless in a Chihuahua’s. The bristles also run firmer than the Virbac, so a dog with inflamed gums may object.

You can find the brush alone for around $9–10, or in a kit with a finger brush and toothpaste for around $16. For a big dog and an owner who wants to finish in under two minutes, it is the most practical pick on this list.

4. Petsmile Professional Toothbrush — best for reach

Petsmile’s brush is the one to look at if your dog has a long muzzle and deep back molars. The handle is longer than a standard pet brush, and the head is angled to follow the curve of the tooth line. Owners who describe brushing as “fishing around in the dark” tend to like it.

It costs around $14, which is twice the Virbac. You are paying for reach and handle geometry, not for a better clean per bristle. For a dog that already tolerates brushing, that trade is reasonable. For a beginner, it is overkill.

The brush pairs with Petsmile’s toothpaste, which is the only toothpaste with the VOHC seal for both plaque and tartar. If you are going to spend on one premium item, spend it on the paste and keep the brush simple.

5. Jasper 360 Finger Toothbrush — best for nervous dogs

Some dogs will not tolerate a handle near their face. A finger brush moves at the speed of your hand, which is slower and less threatening than a plastic stick. Jasper’s version wraps bristles 360 degrees around the finger, so you do not have to rotate your wrist to reach the inside surfaces.

The silicone is soft enough for sensitive gums, and the 360 layout gives more coverage per pass than a nub-style finger sleeve. It is still a finger brush, which means your index finger is the handle and your face is close to the dog’s teeth. Calm dogs only.

Expect to pay around $14 for a two-pack with a storage case at Chewy. The case matters more than it sounds. A damp silicone finger brush left in a drawer grows things.

6. Vet’s Best Fingerbrush 10-Count — best disposable finger brush

If you are still in the training phase, disposables solve a hygiene problem and a commitment problem at the same time. Vet’s Best sells a 10-pack of soft finger sleeves for around $10, which works out to roughly a dollar per brush.

They are not durable, and they do not clean as thoroughly as a bristled brush. That is the point. You use one, you toss it, and you do not have to pretend a silicone sleeve is a permanent dental instrument.

For a puppy, a foster dog, or a dog that is still deciding whether brushing is a threat, this is the lowest-friction way to start. Once the dog accepts the routine, move to a handled brush for the back teeth.

7. Woobamboo Small Dog Toothbrush — best budget small-breed brush

The Woobamboo small brush is about $5 at Chewy, and the head is genuinely proportioned for a toy or small-breed mouth. The bamboo handle is a nice touch if you care about plastic waste, but the reason to buy it is the head size.

Small-breed dogs are not small large-breed dogs. Their teeth are crowded, their gums are often already inflamed, and a brush that is too big skips the spaces between the molars. A small head gets into those spaces.

It is a simple brush with no ergonomic flourishes. At this price, buy three and keep one at each sink. The brush is not the expense. The consistency is.

8. BOSHEL Dog Toothbrush Multipack — best bulk backup

BOSHEL sells a multi-pack with two long-handled brushes and a bonus finger brush. The long stems help with reach, and the multi-pack means you are never caught with a worn-out brush and no replacement.

The bristles are firmer than the vet-recommended soft standard. For a dog with healthy gums, that is acceptable. For a dog with gingivitis or a history of bleeding, it is the wrong brush. Firm bristles are a tool for healthy tissue, not a cure for inflamed tissue.

This is the pick for a multi-dog household or an owner who wants backups in every bathroom. It is not the pick for a dog that flinches.

9. Mind Up Micro-Head — best for toy breeds

Mind Up’s micro-head brush is designed for dogs under about six pounds. The head is small enough to fit behind the incisors of a toy poodle or a Maltese without levering the jaw open.

It also comes with a thumb-and-finger brush for introducing the routine, which makes it a decent starter kit for a very small puppy. The trade-off is coverage: on anything larger than a toy breed, the head is too small to be efficient.

If you have a 4-pound dog with a mouth like a thimble, this is one of the few brushes that does not feel like using a mop on a teacup. If you have a 20-pound dog, skip it.

Dog toothbrush comparison table: price, format, retailer, and the fine print

Prices move. Retailers run different promotions on different days, and the “list price” on a pet brush is about as stable as a weather forecast. The table below uses street prices observed in late 2026 and the store policies that actually affect what you pay if the brush does not work out.

The fine print is where the real difference shows up. Chewy’s 365-day return window with free return shipping is the most forgiving policy in pet retail, and it applies to opened and lightly used items. PetSmart’s 60-day window is fine for a $7 brush, but it is not in the same league.

Shipping thresholds matter more than the brush price. Chewy’s free shipping kicks in at $49. PetSmart’s standard free-shipping threshold is also around $49, though the exact number moves with promotions. A $7 brush bought alone is a $7 brush plus shipping, or a $50 order you did not plan to make.

The real cost of a “cheap” dog toothbrush

Here is the arithmetic nobody puts on the product page. A toothbrush is not a one-time purchase. It is a subscription you manage manually, and the toothpaste runs out faster than the brush wears out.

Take a middle-of-the-road routine: a $7 Virbac brush replaced every three months, a $10–12 enzymatic toothpaste replaced every two to three months, and a dog that actually gets brushed most days. The annual cost lands somewhere between $70 and $110. That is the entire home-care budget.

Now compare it to the alternative. A professional dental cleaning under anesthesia runs $300–$800 at a general practice in the US, and that is before extractions. Anesthesia-free cleaning sounds cheaper, but the American Veterinary Dental College and the AVMA have been clear that it is cosmetic: it does not treat disease below the gum line.

The brush is not the expensive part. The disease is.

One more calculation that the “premium” brush marketing does not want you to do. Some brands recommend replacing the brush head every four weeks. At $14 a head, that is $182 a year on brush heads alone, before toothpaste. A $7 brush replaced every 12 weeks costs $28 a year. The $7 brush does not clean 6.5 times worse. It cleans the same teeth with a less fashionable handle.

Finger brush vs. handled brush vs. 360 vs. silicone

Format is the most consequential decision in the category, more than brand and more than price. Each format solves a different problem, and each one fails in a predictable way.

Finger brushes: good for training, mediocre for molars

A finger brush is a silicone sleeve with bristles or nubs on the tip. It gives you tactile feedback, which is genuinely useful when you are learning where the gum line is, and it is less intimidating than a handle for a nervous dog.

The failure mode is reach. Your finger is short, and a dog’s back molars are at the far end of a narrow mouth. Owners on Chewy and Amazon repeatedly say the finger brush works better on the front teeth and worse on the back. That matches the anatomy.

Veterinary guidance is consistent on this point: finger brushes are a starting tool, not a forever tool. Use one to build tolerance, then graduate to a handled brush for the teeth that actually collect tartar.

Handled brushes: still the gold standard

A soft-bristled handled brush with a head sized to the dog’s mouth is what the WSAVA Global Dental Committee describes as the standard. The handle gives you reach, the bristles give you friction, and the angle lets you approach the gum line at roughly 45 degrees without contorting your wrist.

Dual-ended brushes are the most efficient version of this design because one tool covers the incisors and the molars. A single-head brush works fine if the head is the right size; it just means you may need two brushes for a dog with a wide size range between front and back teeth.

The trade-off is acceptance. A handled brush requires the dog to tolerate an object near its face. That is a training problem, not a product problem, and it is solvable in a few weeks with the steps later in this guide.

360-degree brushes: a compromise that works for some

A 360 brush puts bristles all the way around the head or finger, so you can clean more surfaces without rotating the tool. For a dog that moves its head constantly, that is a real advantage.

The compromise is bulk. A 360 head is thicker than a flat head, and in a small mouth it can miss the crevices between teeth. Customer reviews are split along exactly those lines: great for boxers and calm medium dogs, too big for a 10-pound dog.

Buy one if your dog is wiggly and medium-sized. Skip it if your dog is tiny or if your goal is precision on the gum line.

Silicone and rubber brushes: gentle, but not a bristle replacement

Silicone brushes are soft, flexible, and unlikely to hurt a sensitive mouth. That makes them a reasonable choice for a dog with inflamed gums or a dog that panics at the sight of bristles.

They do not clean as well as bristles. The nubs cannot get between teeth the way bristles can, and they do not generate the same scrubbing friction on the tooth surface. A silicone brush is better than nothing. It is not better than a soft bristle brush.

The sensible use case is a two-tool routine: silicone for the gum massage and the front teeth, bristles for the molars. If you only own one, own bristles.

Electric, sonic, and ultrasonic dog toothbrushes: separate the engineering from the marketing

Yes, you can use an electric toothbrush on a dog. The motor does not know whose mouth it is in, and the right technique with a soft head is safe. The question is whether the electric part earns its price.

For a dog that tolerates the noise and vibration, an electric brush can compensate for a shaky hand. The movement is consistent, and consistency is the thing most owners lack. That is a legitimate benefit.

For a nervous dog, the noise is a dealbreaker. Reviews of ultrasonic and sonic pet brushes are full of dogs that bolt at the sound. One Amazon reviewer described the high-frequency sound as hurting the dog’s ears, which is the opposite of a dental aid.

Ultrasonic is a separate claim. A small pilot study on ultrasonic toothbrushes in dogs found limited effect on dental calculus after a single treatment, and the authors noted that the marketing claims outrun the evidence. If a device promises to remove tartar without brushing, treat that as a claim, not a fact.

The practical ranking is boring: a manual soft-bristle brush used daily beats an electric brush used sporadically. Buy the electric brush only after the manual habit is established, not as a shortcut around it.

Small dogs, puppies, and big dogs: size is a medical issue, not a marketing label

The single most common buying mistake in this category is scaling the brush to the dog’s body weight instead of the dog’s mouth. A 25-pound French bulldog and a 25-pound Beagle do not have the same mouth geometry.

Small dogs and toy breeds

Small breeds have crowded teeth, shallow roots, and a higher risk of periodontal disease at an earlier age. The brush needs a small head, soft bristles, and enough handle to let you reach the back of the mouth without your fingers becoming part of the chew toy.

A micro-head brush or a small dual-ended brush is the right starting point. Finger brushes are useful for the front teeth, but they are a poor fit for the back molars in a mouth that small because your finger physically will not fit.

If your dog is under 10 pounds, buy a brush with a head smaller than your thumbnail. If the head covers more than two teeth at once, it is too big.

Puppies

Puppies need training more than they need cleaning. Their adult teeth are still forming, their gums are sensitive, and a bad first experience can poison the habit for years.

Start with a finger brush or a gauze-wrapped finger and dog-safe toothpaste. The goal in the first two weeks is not a clean mouth. The goal is a dog that lets you lift its lip without a fight.

Move to a soft-headed puppy brush when the dog is comfortable. Do not use a firm bristle brush on a puppy. The enamel is still maturing, and the gums are easy to irritate.

Large and giant breeds

Large dogs have the opposite problem: the mouth is big enough that a standard brush feels like painting a wall with a toothbrush. Coverage per stroke matters, which is why triple-sided and wide-head brushes exist.

The risk with large breeds is complacency. Owners assume a big dog can handle a stiff brush and a rough technique. Gum disease does not care about body weight. A 90-pound dog with inflamed gums needs a softer brush, not a harder one.

The best setup for a large dog is a triple-sided brush for the flat surfaces and a long-handled single-head brush for the gum line. Two tools, two minutes, most days.

How to brush a dog’s teeth without a wrestling match

Most brushing failures are training failures, not product failures. The dog does not hate the brush. It hates being ambushed.

Step 1: Pick a location and a reward that never changes

Choose a spot the dog already likes, such as the mat where it gets treats. Brush in the same place at the same time each day. The predictability does more work than the brush.

Use a reward that is small, soft, and immediate. A lick of dog-safe toothpaste counts. A piece of cheese counts. A whole biscuit does not, because you are trying to build a habit, not a meal.

Step 2: Touch the face before you touch the teeth

For the first few days, just touch the muzzle, lift the lip for one second, and reward. Do not put anything in the mouth. The dog needs to learn that hands near the face are boring.

This step feels too slow. It is the step that determines whether the next 10 years of brushing are easy or impossible.

Step 3: Introduce the brush without brushing

Let the dog sniff the brush. Put dog toothpaste on the bristles and let the dog lick it off. Do this for a few days. The brush becomes a thing that predicts toothpaste, not a thing that predicts restraint.

If the dog refuses the toothpaste, try a different flavor. Poultry and cheese are the two most common winners. A dog that hates mint is not a dog that hates brushing.

Step 4: Brush the easy teeth first

Start with the incisors and canines at the front. They are easy to reach, and the dog can see what you are doing. Use small circles and a 45-degree angle toward the gum line.

Do not start at the back molars. That is the part of the mouth that triggers the most resistance, and starting there teaches the dog that brushing is a fight.

Step 5: Build to 30 seconds per side

The target is roughly 30 seconds on each side of the mouth, which is about two minutes total for a cooperative dog. You do not need to scrub. You need to cover the outside surfaces of the teeth, where plaque accumulates fastest.

The inside surfaces are less critical because the tongue does some self-cleaning. The outside surfaces and the gum line are where the disease starts. Spend your time there.

Step 6: Make it daily, not heroic

Daily brushing is the gold standard. Every other day is the realistic minimum. Plaque starts to mineralize into tartar within 24–36 hours, and once tartar forms, a toothbrush cannot remove it.

A two-minute daily habit beats a 20-minute weekly deep clean. The dog learns faster, the gums stay healthier, and you are less likely to quit.

Dog-safe toothbrush rules: what you can and cannot borrow from your bathroom

Can you use a human toothbrush on a dog?

Mechanically, yes. A soft-bristled human toothbrush, especially a child’s size for a small dog, can work. The WSAVA standard for a dog brush is essentially a soft, flat-profile, ADA-style brush.

The shape is not ideal. Human brushes are designed for a vertical jaw and a different tooth arrangement. A dog’s teeth are more conical, and the back molars are harder to reach with a straight handle. That is why pet-specific angled brushes exist.

So a human brush is a backup, not a first choice. If you use one, use a soft bristle and a child’s size for a small dog. Do not use a firm or medium brush just because it is what you have in the cabinet.

The toothpaste is the dangerous part

Human toothpaste is not safe for dogs. Many formulas contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs, and fluoride, which is not meant to be swallowed. Dogs cannot spit, so whatever you put in their mouth goes down.

Use a dog-specific enzymatic toothpaste. It is safe to swallow, it comes in flavors dogs actually like, and some formulas carry the VOHC seal for plaque or tartar reduction. That seal is the closest thing this category has to an independent quality check.

Do not use baking soda as a substitute. It is not toxic in small amounts, but it is abrasive and salty, and it is not a substitute for an enzymatic paste. The toothpaste is not the place to improvise.

How to clean a dog toothbrush and when to replace it

A toothbrush that sits wet in a cup grows bacteria. That is true for your brush and it is true for your dog’s. Rinse the bristles thoroughly after every use, shake off the excess water, and let the brush air-dry upright.

Once a week, clean the brush more deliberately. A soak in a dilute pet-safe disinfectant or a rinse with hot water is enough. Do not put a silicone finger brush in the dishwasher unless the manufacturer says it is dishwasher-safe.

Replace the brush every three months, or sooner if the bristles are splayed. A worn brush does not clean; it just moves plaque around. If your dog has had a dental infection, replace the brush when the infection clears.

• Bristles bent outward or flattened
• Dark discoloration at the base of the bristles
• A lingering smell that does not rinse away
• A chewed or cracked handle

Dog toothbrush kits: what is worth buying together

Kits are convenient and usually cheaper than buying the components separately. They are also where brands hide the filler.

A good kit contains a soft-bristled brush sized for the dog, a dog-safe enzymatic toothpaste, and a finger brush for training. That is the whole list. Anything beyond that is either a second brush or a marketing extra.

A kit makes sense for a first-time owner because it removes the guesswork. It makes less sense for an experienced owner who already knows the dog’s mouth size and toothpaste preference.

• A brush that fits the dog’s mouth, not the dog’s body weight
• Dog-specific enzymatic toothpaste in a flavor the dog will accept
• A finger brush or gauze for the first two weeks
• A storage case if the kit includes a silicone finger brush

Skip kits that include a “dental chew” as the headline item. Chews are a supplement, not a brushing substitute, and bundling one into a toothbrush kit is a way to raise the price without improving the clean.

Where to buy dog toothbrushes in the US: Chewy, Amazon, Petco, and PetSmart

Chewy has the deepest catalog and the best return policy for pet dental products. The 365-day window with free return shipping is genuinely unusual, and it covers opened items. If you are trying a new brush format on a dog that might hate it, that policy is worth more than a dollar or two of price difference.

Amazon has the widest range of multipacks and third-party brushes, and Prime shipping removes the threshold problem. The risk is counterfeit or mislabeled products in the pet space. Buy from the brand’s official storefront or a seller with a clear return policy.

Petco and PetSmart are the right choice if you want to see the brush in person before buying. PetSmart’s 60-day return window is adequate for a low-cost item, and same-day pickup avoids shipping entirely. If you are buying a $7 brush and you need it today, the store wins.

For toothpaste, the calculus is different. Petsmile’s VOHC-accepted paste is around $25 for 4.2 ounces, and Virbac’s enzymatic paste is around $10–12 for 2.5 ounces. The price per ounce is not the only number that matters; the acceptance rate matters more. A paste the dog refuses is 100% waste.

Buyer protection, returns, and the “free shipping” trap

“Free shipping” is a coupon with a minimum attached, and the minimum is designed to make you buy more than you came for. Chewy’s threshold is $49. A $7 toothbrush does not qualify. You either pay the shipping or you add $42 of dog food to the cart.

The same logic applies to Autoship. A first-order discount of 35–40%, capped at $20, sounds generous until you do the math on a $9 brush. The discount is a few dollars, and the subscription is a recurring shipment you now have to manage. The store is not being charitable. It is buying a subscription with a discount.

Returns are the part of the deal that actually protects you. Chewy’s 365-day policy is the strongest in the category. PetSmart’s 60-day policy is standard retail. Amazon’s return window depends on the seller, which is exactly why you should check it before checkout.

If you are buying one brush to test, buy it from the retailer with the best return policy, even if it costs a dollar more. The dollar is insurance.

The questions that decide the purchase

These are the questions that show up in every forum thread and every vet visit. The answers are shorter than the internet makes them look.

How often should I brush my dog’s teeth?

Daily is the gold standard, and every other day is the practical minimum. Plaque begins to harden into tartar within about 24–36 hours, and once that happens a toothbrush cannot remove it. Two minutes a day, most days, is the habit that prevents the $500 cleaning.

Can I use an electric toothbrush on my dog?

Yes, with two conditions: a soft brush head and a gradual introduction. Let the dog hear the motor before it touches the mouth, and start with the brush turned off. If the dog panics at the sound, stop. The noise is the most common reason electric brushes fail with dogs.

Is a finger toothbrush as good as a regular dog toothbrush?

For the front teeth, close enough. For the back molars, no. A finger is too short to reach the far end of a dog’s mouth, and the back teeth are where tartar accumulates fastest. Use a finger brush to build tolerance, then move to a handled brush.

What is the best toothbrush for a small dog?

A soft-bristled brush with a head smaller than your thumbnail, ideally a dual-ended or micro-head design. Small breeds have crowded teeth and sensitive gums, so a large head skips the spaces that need cleaning. The Vetoquinol Enzadent or the Woobamboo small brush are the safest starting points.

Do I need dog toothpaste, or can I just use water?

Water on a brush does remove some plaque, but dog toothpaste does more. Enzymatic formulas break down plaque chemically, and the flavor makes the dog more willing to accept the brush. Never use human toothpaste: xylitol and fluoride are not safe for dogs.

How do I know if my dog’s toothbrush is too big?

If the head covers more than two teeth at once, it is too big. If the dog opens its mouth wide and turns its head away when the brush approaches the back molars, the head is probably too bulky. A brush should fit behind the last molar without levering the jaw open.

Is it too late to start brushing my dog’s teeth?

No, but the starting point changes. A dog with existing tartar needs a professional cleaning first, then a daily brushing routine to keep the tartar from returning. Brushing an already-coated tooth will not remove the calculus, and it may irritate inflamed gums.

The bottom line

Buy a soft-bristled brush that fits the dog’s mouth, a dog-safe enzymatic toothpaste, and a finger brush for the first two weeks. Replace the brush every three months. Brush daily or close to it. That routine costs less than $100 a year and prevents a problem that costs hundreds to fix.

The fancy brushes are not the answer. The habit is. A $7 brush used every day will beat a $40 gadget used twice a month, and the dog will not care which one is in the drawer.